Showing posts with label gardening. Show all posts
Showing posts with label gardening. Show all posts

Tuesday, 30 April 2013



 Key Nutrients for Plants and VegetablesEpsom Salt is 

Magnesium Sulfate — 


As spring draws near, some of the country’s top gardeners recommend using Epsom salt as an inexpensive way to start or improve your garden.
Epsom salt – actually magnesium sulfate – helps seeds germinate, makes plants grow bushier, produces more flowers, increases chlorophyll production and deters pests, such as slugs and voles. It also provides vital nutrients to supplement your regular fertilizer.
Cornell University Assistant Professor Neil Mattson says plants will show visual cues if they are starved for a particular nutrient. If a plant’s leaves turn yellow all over the plant, it can be a sign they need more sulfate. If lower leaves turn yellow between the veins (that is the veins stay green), they may need more magnesium. Some nutrient disorders can look alike so growers can contact their county extension agents either before they plant to test a soil sample or, if they notice a problem, they can bring in a plant for diagnosis.
“Plants need those building blocks." says Mattson."  Magnesium and sulfur are essential nutrients.”
Although magnesium and sulfur occur naturally in soil, they can be depleted by various conditions, including heavy agricultural use. But unlike most commercial fertilizers, which build up in the soil over time, Epsom Salt is not persistent so you can’t overuse it.

Mattson – who adds Epsom salt to his fertilizer for plants such as roses, pansies, petunias and impatiens – says gardeners can proactively mix Epsom salt with fertilizer and add it to their soil monthly, or they can mix one tablespoon with a gallon of water and spray leaves directly every two weeks.
Epsom Salt is recommended by Master Gardeners and used regularly by commercial growers around the world. Tests by the National Gardening Association confirm that roses fertilized with Epsom Salt grow bushier and produce more flowers, and it also makes pepper plants grow larger than those treated only with commercial fertilizer.


Here are some other tips for using Epson salt in the garden:
  • Houseplants: 2 tablespoons per gallon of water; feed plants monthly.
  • Roses: 1 tablespoon per foot of plant height per plant; apply every two weeks. Also scratch 1/2 cup into soil at base to encourage flowering canes and healthy new basal cane growth. Soak unplanted bushes in 1 cup of Epsom Salt per gallon of water to help roots recover. Add a tablespoon of Epsom Salt to each hole at planting time. Spray with Epsom Salt solution weekly to discourage pests.
  • Shrubs (evergreens, azaleas, rhododendron): 1 tablespoon per 9 square feet. Apply over root zone every 2-4 weeks.
  • Lawns: Apply 3 pounds for every 1,250 square feet with a spreader, or dilute in water and apply with a sprayer.
  • Trees: Apply 2 tablespoons per 9 square feet. Apply over the root zone 3 times annually.
  • Garden Startup: Sprinkle 1 cup per 100 square feet. Mix into soil before planting.
About Epsom salt
Epsom salt – actually magnesium sulfate – is one of the most versatile household products, with uses ranging from creating at-home spa treatments to soothing achy muscles to helping start or improve gardens. It’s been used therapeutically for hundreds of years, and it’s gaining a new generation of fans looking for a safe, economical alternative in a sea of expensive, over-the-counter remedies. Epsom salt is easy to use, easy to find in your local pharmacy or grocery store and it costs about the same per use as a cup of coffee.

Courtesy of:  www.perfectgardeningtips.com

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Friday, 5 April 2013


Try Wood Ash As A Soil Fertilizer:


Consider saving the ashes from this summer’s campfires, backyard fire pits and even your home’s fireplace or wood stove, did you know they can be spread throughout the garden to act as an organic soil booster? They’ll also deter pests too! Here’s how it works:
Natural Garden Booster
It's Surprising What You Can Use As A Garden Booster
Wood ashes contain potassium, calcium, phosphorus and magnesium which encourage strong root and stem growth.
It’s main benefit as a garden pick-me-up though is that it increases the soil’s alkalinity (which you’ll want if it’s acidic). It’s considered a substitute for garden lime since they both sweeten soil, though keep in mind that the ashes will produce results faster since they’re more water soluble.
Important! Don’t use if soil is alkaline, test first if you’re unsure.
How to use: Sprinkle them on top of tilled dirt then take a rake and mix in evenly, make sure to break down any clumps since a heavy concentration will result in a potentially harmful salt spot once it gets wet.
Apply when the dirt is dry, it’s not windy and at least 3 weeks before planting to give it a chance to work its magic (and not be too strong for seedlings).
How much to use: It’s advised to use no more than 25 gallons per 1000 square feet per year  and that you test the soil before each application.
If you have already planted, you can still take advantage of it by simply side-dressing around growing plants. Use it in vegetable gardens, flower beds, around shrubs and even on your lawn!
  • Rose bushes & shrubs: Treat with 1/2 to 1 pound of wood ash (per year).
  • Lawns: Apply no more than 10 to 15 pounds of ash per 1,000 square feet of lawn (only if soil pH is less than 7.0, don’t use if potassium levels are high).
Natural pest repellent? You bet! Bugs such as garden slugs and snails are not fond of scraping their bellies across the ashes so they’ll move on to find more friendlier ground. To be effective you’ll need to spread a fresh batch around plants after each rain, just a lightly sprinkled layer will do (a light layer also won’t sway the pH level that much so you can use it without too much concern).
They are pretty strong at first and can burn a plant’s leaves if it comes in contact with them, rinse plants well after dressing. Don’t sprinkle too close to young plants since they’re more sensitive to direct contact.

Tips

  • You can also add them to the compost pile (about every 6″ or so), this helps reduce odors and increase the rate of decomposition (not too heavy, just a light layer will do).
  • Do not use any that came from wood that had a chemical preservative applied and only use if produced from wood fires that have not included other items (since they may contain traces of harmful materials for the dirt or plants).
  • Remember, this is a substitute for lime which means it decreases a soil’s acidity. Don’t use around acid loving plants (such as blueberries).
  • Those from hardwoods contain more nutrients than found in softwoods. Also those from young wood contain more nutrients than those from older wood.
  • If the ashes were exposed to rain before being collected, are they still good to use? Not really, the nutrients will seep out with the water (which is fine when they have already been applied to the garden but not before).
  • Wear eye protection, a mask and gloves when handling since it can be harmful if you breathe it in or gets in your eyes.
  • How to store: keep tightly sealed in a container so they stay dry until needed.

Thursday, 28 March 2013

Best Shade-Tolerant Vegetables


Even in shady conditions, you can bask in great garden harvests if you choose the right crops and make a few easy adjustments.

By Colleen Vanderlinden 

When considering which crops to grow in shady areas, think of them in terms of leaves and roots. Crops we grow for their leaves (kale, lettuce, spinach) and those we grow for their roots (beets, carrots, turnips) will do fairly well in partially shady conditions. (The crops we grow for their fruits — such as eggplants, peppers and tomatoes — really do need at least six hours of full sun per day.)

                                           CROP:
  • Arugula: at least three to four hours of sun per day.Arugula welcomes shade, as this crop is prone to bolting as soon as the weather turns warm if in full sun.
  • Asian greens:  at least two hours of sun per day.Asian greens such as bok choi (also spelled “pac choi” and “pak choi”), komatsuna and tatsoi will grow wonderfully with a couple hours of sun plus some bright shade or ambient light.
  • Chard: If you grow chard mainly for its crisp stalks, you will need at least five hours of sun per day; if you grow it mainly for the tender baby leaves, three to four hours of sun per day will be enough.Expect chard grown in partial shade to be quite a bit smaller than that grown in full sun. Baby chard leaves are excellent cooked or served raw in salads.
  • Culinary herbs: at least three hours of sun per day.While many culinary herbs need full sun, chives, cilantro, garlic chives, golden marjoram, lemon balm, mint, oregano and parsley will usually perform well in shadier gardens
  • Kale: at least three to four hours of sun per day.You'll notice only a small reduction in growth if comparing kale grown in partial shade with kale grown in full sun
  • Lettuce: at least three to four hours of sun per day.Lettuce is perfect for shadier gardens because the shade protects it from the sun’s heat, preventing it from bolting as quickly. Often, the shade can buy a few more weeks of harvesting time that you’d get from lettuce grown in full sun.
  • Mesclun: One of the best crops for shady gardens. Grows in as little as two hours of sun per day and handles dappled shade well.The delicate leaves of this salad mix can be harvested in about four weeks, and as long as you leave the roots intact, you should be able to get at least three good harvests before you have to replant.
  • Mustard greens: at least three hours of sun per day for baby mustard greens.Mustard grown for baby greens is best-suited for shady gardens.
  • Peas and beans: at least four to five hours of sun.If growing these crops in partial shade, getting a good harvest wil take longer. Try bush and dwarf varieties rather than pole varieties.
  • Root vegetables: at least four to five hours of sun per day for decent production.Beets, carrots, potatoes, radishes and turnips will do OK in partial shade, but you'll have to wait longer for a full crop. The more light you have, the faster they'll mature. Alternatively, you can harvest baby carrots or small new potatoes for a gourment treat that would cost an arm and a leg at a grocery store.
  • Scallions: at least three hours of sun per day.This crop does well in partial shade throughout the growing season
  • Spinach: at least three to four hours of sun per day.Spinach welcomes shade, as it bolts easliy if in full sun. If you grow it specifically to harvest as baby spinach, you'll be able to harvest for quite a while as long as you continue to harvest the outmost leaves of each plant.
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Read more: http://www.motherearthnews.com/shade-tolerant-vegetables-zm0z11zsto.aspx#ixzz2Oty7O8EU